3 October 2016
by Isabelle Ohnemus
Photo: Prada/ SS17
EyeFitU reports from Milan Fashion Week.
Synonymous with summer, floral continues as a key summery print – this time in the guise of oversized blooms. The Milan shows in particular showed off oversized renditions for maximum impact (no shrinking violets here). Designers such as Angelo Marani, Fendi, Ports 1961 and Max Mara paid tribute to the tropics using palm leaf prints and hibiscus florals across floaty dresses, form-flattering maxi skirts and loose tunics. Once again, the classic floral print has been updated, enlarged for a contemporary outlook.
Photo: Dolce & Gabbana/ SS17
We’ve admired the fun shade throughout both New York and London Fashion Weeks, and now yellow is popping during the Milan shows too. Delivering a strong outing, the colour has definitely emerged as the hue to be seen in – quickly becoming the season’s hottest shade. Creamy hues, bright marigold and dandelion mix across the catwalks at Prada, Max Mara, Emilio Pucci and Cristiano Burani. Instant summer cheer is achieved with designers using shades in head-to-toe or combination looks, some even combining it with candy pink, fiery orange or deep red.
Photo: Byblos/ SS17
Going from colour to texture, the winner was sparkling surfaces. Last season, the maximalist effect was popular and this continued for SS17. Designers opted for a ‘more is more’ approach when it came to materials. Shimmering down the catwalk, looks were embossed, enriched and embellished with sparkling surfaces. Fendi and Gucci used gold and silver for a classic update, whilst coloured metallics added a contemporary feel on pieces from the Francesco Scognamiglio, Krizia and Aquilano.Rimondi shows.
Photo: Fendi/ SS17
There’s no room for shy and retiring types on the streets of Milan. We’ve been admiring a lot of bold and quirky street style, full of the coolest summer prints, with everyone embracing colour and pattern in full force. From stunning printed, belted dresses (worn with metallic boots no less), to floral crochet in layers of pastel, via contrasting block colour in exaggerated silhouettes, there’s inspiration wherever you look.
Photo: Milan Fashion Week Street Style/Phil Oh
The old favourite skinny jean is paired with a puff sleeve shirt in a cartoonish print, whilst a directional printed midi dress is layered with more bold print and statement coloured jewellery. Those in the front row wowed as much as the shows themselves; it was all about celebrating the sophisticated woman with eclectic taste.
So, on to the shows… Gucci saw Alessandro Michele deliver his signature maximalism. Think fantasy, enigma, and wizardry. Luxe clashed with thrift shop, with plenty of red carpet ready looks. There were also commercial daywear pieces (hidden under layers of decoration) and a new portfolio of accessories. SS17 proved an activewear influence with old favourites mixing with the new and unexpected. Heart, animal and floral motifs were presented on cardigan suits, there were skinny 70s pantsuits but also 80s inspired cocktail and evening ball dresses. The athleisure effect ran with pants layered under skirts and dresses (unexpectedly embellished and bow trimmed) with a baseball kit that even featured creamy silk embellishment. The piece de resistance? An innovative two-in-one shoe offer of ballet pumps that sat inside a sandal, held in place thanks to many tiny straps.
Photo: Gucci/ SS17
At Prada, the past was juxtaposed with the present. All enjoyed a stellar futuristic collection, which at the same time, bore resemblances to the original codes of Prada. Indeed, Prada released a new film called ‘Past forward’ about the future and reality fast forward. Bold looks included a variety of belted summer coats, delicately beaded chinoiserie pyjamas, and a black skirt and tank top to open the show (simple save for the sport inspired accessories that were imbued throughout, whilst Marabou feathers fluttered in abundance). The slip dress, knicker shorts and a plaid bomber were also key items admired on the catwalk. Famous for colour blocking and geometrics, Prada also worked painterly abstract florals into the showcase – all in a rainbow of yellow, red, black and chalk white.
Photo: Prada/ SS17
Celebrating the sophisticated female muse, Marni showed off a stunning, forward-thinking collection that charmed the international fashion circle (including EyeFitU)! A monochrome silhouette, gently distorted, featured blown up sleeves and oversized cargo pockets. Whilst asymmetry was seen throughout, the collection felt perfectly controlled. Shades of white and cream were offset with pops of red, hues of green, and dusted with pastels that transformed into beautifully distorted micro prints. Sparkling embroidery was also spotted that gave a new dimension to Marni’s expression of gathering, folding and soft pleating. We’ll be keeping an eye on the Soft Utility trend and investing in boxy tops and cargo pants over the coming months, especially in pale baby blue and spring lilac.
Photo: Marni/ SS17
Up next: Will Paris be able to top all that?