PFW’s Top 10 Key Trends
7 April 2017
by Isabelle Ohnemus
Photo: Chrisitan Dior / AW1718 Paris
Our fashion week adventure wraps up in Paris. The shows were crammed full of new colour trends, 1940s throwbacks and all the romance you could wish for. Stay tuned for the top 10 key trends for AW17/18.
Photo: Elie Saab, Valentino / AW1718 Paris
Thanks to John Galliano, Elie Saab and Valentino, arresting, flirtatious looks sashayed down the catwalks. Think super soft pastel shades and delicate silk for an ethereal vibe. Historical details from intricate embroidery to eye-catching scalloped borders were translated for contemporary appeal.
Rich and raw
Photo: Dries Van Noten, Christian Dior/ AW1718 Paris
Impacting the premium market in Paris, seen at Dries Van Noten and Christian Dior, were smart-casual led collections. Volume is key across a range of clean and contemporary denim pieces. We admired proportion play across offbeat wide collars, oversized sleeves and wider jean fits. Colour wise, polished indigo was the go-to hue.
Photo: Vetements, Celine / AW1718 Paris
The classic piece has been updated with a contemporary edge – say hello to the Trench 2.0. Cut in generous proportions, the perennial trench coat (showcased at Céline and Vetements) now features widened lapels and oversized patches. We spotted a nod towards a modern utility mood throughout, with fabrics ranging from lightweight wools to compact cottons.
Photo: Lanvin, Jacquemus / AW1718 Paris
As androgynous shapes continue down the catwalk, a return to the feminine silhouette was refreshing to see. Skilled construction and sturdier fabrics offered a modern update on pieces that drew influence from the houses of Dior and Balenciaga in the 1940s and early 1950s; the trend was also seen at Lanvin and Isabel Marant. Emphasis was placed on the waist with cuts emphasising the female form.
Photo: Louis Vuitton, Celine / AW1718 Paris
As seen at Louis Vuitton amongst others, the luxurious faux fur coat re-emerges in classic renditions. Acting as the outerwear extension of the 1940s femme theme, coats are long-line, in natural coloured pelts, with slightly oversized proportions. Designers experimented with patchwork piecing to lend increased tactility to the glamorous (and practical) piece.
Photo: Maison Margiela, Chloe / AW1718 Paris
In contrast – as seen at Maison Margiela and Chloé – modern power dressing remains a strong look in AW17. Jackets are long-line and boxy, trousers are softly tailored with a slightly more relaxed aesthetic. Designers focused on sartorial dressing for an empowering result.
Photo: Acne Studios, Sonia Rykiel / AW1718 Paris
Moving onto the colour trends, neutrals were firmly placed as a core colour story for next season throughout the Paris collections. See Acne Studios for the range of crisp off-whites and warmed cream-toned shades, seen across luxury, tactile surfaces. Winter palettes of chalk hues and antique white were contrasted with oatmeal tones to add depth.
Photo: John Galliano, Nina Ricci / AW1718 Paris
In line with the feminine mood celebrated this PFW, deep pales were a huge success. A fresh alternative to typical autumnal tones, tailored outfits cut head-to-toe in lightly dusted peach or buttercup yellow feel new. Heritage blue and lavender were also popular, not to mention sophisticated. See John Galliano’s looks for colourful inspiration.
Photo: Balenciaga, Chloe / AW1718 Paris
More classic A/W season shades were embraced, especially at Balenciaga. Echoing the changing shades of leaves as the seasons progress, deep cognac browns, khaki and olive were admired. The latest micro-trend is to wear them head-to-toe, which works as both a refined and daring outfit.
All over black
Photo: Chrisitan Dior / AW1718 Paris
Head-to-toe black was a success across all four fashion weeks – impressive in Paris at Alexander McQueen. Eveningwear and outerwear, as well as suiting, championed the darkest hue. The shade has been used across leather, wool and cotton, as well as on vinyl to provide contemporary shine.