26 October 2016
by Isabelle Ohnemus
Photo: Preen Line PF16/ Zara Suits
Own the night with our eveningwear and special occasionwear feature. EyeFitU reports on the tailored and glamorous looks for now.
Looking for the perfect new dress? Overshadow all others in pick of the season – the ruffle dress. That’s right, ruffles remain a key detail for Fall and adorn dresses to add new dimensions to classic shapes. Take inspiration from the catwalks of Victoria by Victoria Beckham, Fendi, Opening Ceremony and Givenchy and try the look in everything from delicate chiffon to leather. Whatever your style, ruffle dresses flit from overtly feminine as imagined to surprisingly edgy via asymmetric or oversized iterations.
Photo: Victoria by Victoria Beckham/ PF16
Elsewhere, the tea dress makes a comeback – think decadent afternoons with society girls drinking high tea at The Ritz! The aim is to accentuate the female form with high waistlines and pleats. Choose an eccentric aesthetic with retro geometrics or go for a ladylike look in quaint florals.
Photo: Giorgio Armani/ PF16
As an update from the romantic dresses of SS16, come the colder weather, the long, flowing full dress reigns. Both the Valentino Red and Preen by Thornton Bregazzi shows featured long-line dresses that were long sleeved, ruffled and sporting asymmetric hemlines. Offering a relaxed approach, the styles show off floral prints in lightweight materials and add romanticism to your evening.
The fabric du jour? Textured wools. Flannel-like suitings and fine-count wool take on textured surface interest through flecked and mélange cloths and the use of ‘salt and pepper’ weaves. The SB-2 continues as a key silhouette and is versatile across both business and relaxed wear; wear yours in core tones of Air Force blue and warm grey.
Photo: Hardy Amies Suits/ AW16
Evoking a modern feel, soft suitings are in. Softly constructed suits in fabrics ranging from flannels to knits via velvet or corduroy have relaxed-luxe appeal. Rustic browns, tan and camel offer a high-end feel, whilst versatile blues and statement greys in easy-fitted silhouettes are most relevant for eveningwear. Mix it up by styling SB-2 jackets and straight-leg pants with causal elements.
Photo: Dior Homme Suits/ AW16
Thirdly, here come the tuxedo looks. Lustrous fabrics from velvet to fine wools are popular in deep, rich tones of wine, indigo and classic black. Traditional tuxedo looks are updated via narrow interpretations of the notch lapel and shawl collar, with authentic details including tonal satin lapels. Impress in pocket squares and coordinating waistcoats, which offer the versatility to keep it unexpectedly relaxed or style it up for night.
Stand out in the statement suit for AW16, which underpins a mood of luxurious eccentricity. This season, designers experiment with a darker take on the exotic florals of summer past. Experiment with the Romantic Explorer trend in faux animal skins too. Integral to this look, rich fabrics from brocade to plush velvet are given further dynamism thanks to metallic coatings and sequins.
Photo: Valentino/ AW16
Tapping into the Historical Romanticism trend is the romantic blouse (a smart and ladylike alternative to your favourite dress). For winter, choose softly sculpted sleeves, high-cut necklines and the prevailing pussy-bow tie. Fashion houses from Lanvin, Chloé and the edgier Christopher Kane presented this style for AW16 in frothy layers of chiffon or georgette, and sultry sheer lace or silky satins.
Photo: Gucci/ AW16
Pair with a sheer pleated skirt in knee to midi length. Adding interest are contrasting coloured slips for subtle depth. Enhanced by the use of tulle, lace fabrics and lightweight chiffons, the piece lends a gently romantic feel to your party outfit.
Stealing the limelight, the coloured suit is the ideal choice to brighten the darker days of winter. Simple in terms of styling, these boldly hued suits make an impact through eye-catching colour. Follow the example of Antonio Marras or Topman Design, and leave behind conventional shades of grey, black and navy, instead pushing boundaries in yellow or hot orange. Less intense, viable alternatives are found in the form of mauve, bottle green and bright blue.
Photo: Topman Design/ AW16
The velvet suit is making waves in the current comfortable luxury trend (once the preserve of ecclesiastic robes and royal garments, now velvet has come to express status). The colour of this tactile surface enlivens the style story further. Velvet suits were seen at Thomas Pink and Emporio Armani, as a bold expression at Tiger of Sweden, or more simple and pared back at Todd Snyder. At Haider Ackermann, the look was presented in devoré and crushed finishes.
Photo: Tiger of Sweden/ AW16
As an antidote to meddling with the rules of tailoring, designers (at Marni, Theory and Matthew Miller to be precise) offered slim and sharp 2SB suits with precise detailing in largely safe colourways. This wearable wardrobe staple updates last season’s version with a more uniform fit and features a slimmed-down shoulder line. What’s more, pockets and lapels evoke a lean 1960s feel.
Reach for those dancing shoes, it’s time for party season.