Your ultimate guide to shirts
12 June 2017
by Isabelle Ohnemus
How many shirts are too many shirts? If your answer is infinite, read on.
EyeFitU scoured the menswear catwalks, looked back at the street style stars, and analysed the trends. SS17/18 is the season of the shirt. Continue reading for the key styles to invest in (before your mates beat you to it).
Photo: David Hart / davidhartnyc.com
The resort shirt is the new hot pick as the vehicle for seasonal colour and print stories. Its boxy, relaxed silhouette works across a broad range of styling and fabrics. Solid colour looks have a retro feel; all-over florals from sunflowers and poppies to palm prints create an exploded statement, whilst variations on stripes tick off workwear essentials. In fact, summer stripes (both bold or refined) are the print update to note, shifting away from the obvious vacation-ready appeal.
Summer styling comes to the fore with grown-up skate styles gathering pace. Ubiquitous 1950s revere collar styles remain, joined by burgeoning 1990s looks that offer renewed mileage for the recognisable item. Choose seasonal cottons or micro weaves that deliver a more structured quality.
The introduction of half-zip plackets lends a modern twist, driven by the now famous athleisure movement. Finally, resort shirts in casual indigo deliver urban skate style.
Eastern inspired – Kapital
Photo: GQ / gq.com
Cross-cultural references inform summer deliveries, refreshing casual items such as the stand collar shirt. As seen at Supreme and 3.1 Phillip Lim, compact, lightweight cotton poplins feel fresh via the introduction of half plackets, raglan sleeves, plus panels reminiscent of artisan patchwork. Longer tunic lengths are a great option for the brave, whilst hi-lo hems or side splits add ease of movement to the bohemian style.
At the directional end of the market, kimono styling emerges from SS17/18’s interest in global cultures whilst traditional noragi shirts gather pace.
The easy layering piece works best with simple wrap-front styles, unfussy constructions and tapered arm volume that offers wide transition for the experimental shirt.
Photo: Acne / acnestudios.com
Woven checks inject a bold spirit into this season’s shirting, particularly throughout the Milan collections. Traditional layouts of gingham and overchecks as well as madras variations are magnified to add a graphic element to summer shirts. At Gucci and Ports 1961, a smart look is championed with crisp and smooth surfaces whereas brushed, coated and crinkled finishes offer a casual angle with youthful attitude.
Meanwhile, as seen at Mango and Polo Ralph Lauren, bright clashes and elevated neon accents liven up plaid layouts on breathable, functional cotton bases. Offering a fun and cheerful mood, multicoloured woven patterns are bold in colour and scale. This must-have summer look captures a youthful, vibrant spirit and updates streetwear and resort styles.
Photo: Urban Outfitters
At the core of a high-summer casual look is linen lending hand-woven appeal. Recalling humble roots, relaxed linen shirts present subtle dobby stitching, tactile honeycomb weave structures as well as crinkled seersucker techniques. As spotted at Zara and Urban Outfitters, neutral tones are key whilst gingham checks and stripes in sun-bleached accents gently break up undyed grounds.
All over print
If natural isn’t your thing, then print certainly works for this season and beyond too. From Marni to Native Youth, feminine design details (think paisleys and florals) blend with 1990s inspired menswear. Yes, say hello to the emerging Psychedelic Grunge trend. Designers build off this motif, softening the aesthetic with more fluid prints. Choose draped shirt silhouettes cut in viscose, cupro, rayons and satins. You’ll welcome a sense of opulence to the already louche style.
Photo: 3.1. Phillip Lim
It’s all about the return of the bowling shirt. Work it with authentic workwear details and retro-sport styling. Both Valentino and Lanvin utilise silk materials with bold vertical stripes and chain stitching to transcend age, not to mention blur the line between everyday functional apparel and the fashion piece. Shirts work well with a node to neo-vintage in nostalgia-inducing satin appearing in contrast colours. We dare you.
Photo: Neil Barrett
Last up in our ultimate guide to shirts for SS17/18 is the original artwork micro trend. Making a comeback as the weather heats up, quirky conversationals are reworked in micro iterations across a range of shirt styles. The smaller the better; figurative prints are a recurring theme for menswear and begin a fun narrative across summer shirting. Give in to their subtle playfulness as characters from baseball players and cyclists to swimmers are scattered across new season shirt shapes.